240v electric hook up socket

I replaced the external 240v hook up socket today which was pretty straight forward but I was surprised and concerned about the small size of screws that were originally used to secure it.
Since having the van I had already sealed around the socket having noticed the joint "cracking" but now seeing the size of screws originally used to retain an item that is subjected to quite a bit of tugging to plug and unplug - and just to open the flap - I am surprised the socket had not come away entirely. When replacing the socket 2 of 4 screws just spun and would not tighten which explained why they came out so easily considering they relied purely on the grip the outer thin plastic skin.
I finally used some screws about 20mm longer (same thickness) which would be deep enough to go through the insulation layer and grip the inner hardboard layer and providing a good firm anchor.
It seems that the original fitting arrangement relied mainly on the joint sealant rather than the screws which may be ok for some fittings but not for something that takes quite a bit of pulling and tugging.
The new screws protrude about 5mm inside the van (in the space under the wardrobe) - have wedged some pipe insulation over them to cover the sharp points.
Sometimes wonder about the quality of AS workmanship ....  Food for thought!

Just replaced mine too and mine was a bit of a mess.
I would be very careful about using longer screws when you have 240v electric cables in the vicinity.
It might be an idea to grind 5mm off the nose of the screws and refit them so there is nothing protruding .
Mine came with a pathetic foam washer that is completely useless so I have added some sikaflex to be on the safe side.

it might be an idea to use a bit of course sandpaper to adjust the fit of your hookup plug to the socket so it isn't so tight. If you paint a little colour to the inside of the plug and socket you should be able to see where they are binding together and sand it to improve the fit so its not necessary to tug on the plug to release it  every time

yes just modified the screws as suggested to be on safe side. The socket seems very secure now so will see how i get on without sanding plug. Thanks for the tips.

I'm always concerned every time I connect and disconnect my hookup lead too. Its very tight and I have to wiggle it like crazy to get it to give up the plug. Its going to get the sandpaper treatment as soon as I'm well enough to start work on it again.

Another annoyance is that our van came with a 16 mile long cable which takes hours to coil up and uncoil and arrange it in rows alongside the van.
I must order up a short 5m or 7.5m hookup cable for all those time we can park close to the electric point.
On a rainy day by the time I've coiled up the lead on my arm I'm soaking wet and smothered in grass stains

I had a 30m hook up cable which was way too long that came with the van so I bought some an extra plug and socket, made a 10m and 20m cable. The 10m cable covers most pitches and occasionally plug the 2 together for the longer connections. Plug and socket £8.50 at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Hook-Up-Plug-and-Socket-CARAVAN-CAMPING-MOTOR-HOME-/162172420971?hash=item25c23ac36b:g:RawAAOSwbYZXUZdx

hey Steve thanks  

just shows you how a different perspective on something can give the best solution. That never occured to me. dohhhh.

I'll order up the plug/socket

Yes that's what i like about this forum - the sharing of ideas and solutions.
Cheers.

Just remember that if you have a plug-socket connection on the ground at least elevate it so there's no chance of it lying in standing water. Some on here buy special waterproof connection boxes, or make their own out of click lid food containers.
Al.

And remember that if you need to use two cables joined together, be discrete about it! It's explicitly against the rules at (IIRC) both CC and C&CC sites, so try not to make it too visible. I've only needed to do it on a couple of occasions and never had an issue, but you don't want to tempt one of the (thankfully few) jobsworths at those sites...

If you know what you're doing, you could also make a very short lead which has the terminals reversed on one end, to correct reverse polarity. Just be sure to mark or label that lead very conspicuously.

Cymro wrote:If you know what you're doing, you could also make a very short lead which has the terminals reversed on one end, to correct reverse polarity. Just be sure to mark or label that lead very conspicuously.

   not sure I follow that . if you fit a standard plug on one end and a standard socket on the other they will automatically be wired correctly. The only thing you need to watch is that you wire the correct plug or socket on the end of the correct end of the lead once its cut .

-mojo- wrote:And remember that if you need to use two cables joined together, be discrete about it! It's explicitly against the rules at (IIRC) both CC and C&CC sites, so try not to make it too visible. I've only needed to do it on a couple of occasions and never had an issue, but you don't want to tempt one of the (thankfully few) jobsworths at those sites...

Good point but i think all the CC and C&CC club sites tend to have plenty of power points well in reach of 10 or 20m - certainly the ones we've been to - the last time i had t join 2 leads together was a site in France. But yes i take heed of your warning - there's always the risk of a jobsworth about.

johnnyxs wrote:

Cymro wrote:If you know what you're doing, you could also make a very short lead which has the terminals reversed on one end, to correct reverse polarity. Just be sure to mark or label that lead very conspicuously.

   not sure I follow that . if you fit a standard plug on one end and a standard socket on the other they will automatically be wired correctly. The only thing you need to watch is that you wire the correct plug or socket on the end of the correct end of the lead once its cut .

I think what Cymro means is that if you connect a short length up but cross the terminals on one side then if you land up at a site that is wired up wrong (ie L & N reversed) then you can use this to correct it. Think last year in France about 50% of the sites we stayed were reversed polarity.
I have used my reverse polarity adapter cable a lot but only in France.

Exactly so, Steve. Thanks for expanding upon my hurried post.
Such a very short correcting lead is v useful abroad. It's plugged into the site's socket (if the site has reverse polarity) and your normal lead is then plugged into the short lead and into the van. Solves the problem.

gotcha !  I have found one reversed polarity site in the Uk .

I'm now wondering if I have bought the correct plug and socket ?  

I'm not sure if these can be used for inline joining of cable . dayum...

The whole point of buying the socket plug pair was so I could cut my 25m cable into 15m and 10m and be able to join them together when I need the extra length. I'm now wondering if there are special inline plug and socket sets

good idea . I initially assumed that that would be the case until I saw an 'inline' connector on ebay then I started to doubt it.

johnnyxs wrote:good idea . I initially assumed that that would be the case until I saw an 'inline' connector on ebay then I started to doubt it.

don't worry you've bought the correct plug and socket ...... assuming the plug and socket on your existing cable are standard.

thanks Steve thats a relief

The flap on my hook up cover is about to split right across the hinge - probably due to it not latching properly and flying in the wind. Being too mean to buy a complete new fitting, has anyone come up with a way of repairing the flap neatly. Gaffer tape is so unsightly. I have tried Captain Whatsits crack fixer, but when the flap is locked it is under tension and the seal breaks.

Thanks

Peterm

The flap on mine broke in just the same way. I replaced the whole thing. A repair is not really worth it in my opinion considering a new socket is so cheap.
Al.

I'd agree with Al - they typically become brittle with age anyway, so it will probably crack somewhere else if you repair it successfully. I've taken to using Velcro dots to hold mine down so that it does not take the repeated latching/unlatching stress - and I have not yet had it break free of the Velcro and start flapping about on the motorway.

I renewed mine as flap was brittle, when i fitted new one i used longer screws that went through outer skin the insulation and screwed in to the inner ply, i made sure the crews would not damage anything on the inside.

I have been on CC and CCC sites have supplied extension cables. I once got one at CC Hawes as the nearest point was broken and at Dunstan Hill CCC  this year people were given extensions to get to sockets.