Peugeot Boxer key fob.

I have a 2011 AS Cotswold, it has a Peugeot Boxer cab etc.   The Peugeot key fob has the usual three buttons, on my Cotswold the top button unlocks the cab doors, the middle button locks the cab doors and the bottom button does nothing.
I thought that the bottom button should lock/unlock the side habitation door ?
When I say that the bottom button does nothing then that is not 100% correct because when it is depressed I can hear the drivers door lock click but it neither locks it or unlocks it, it just clicks.
Has anybody any ideas what the correct operation of the key fob buttons should be ?
Thank you in anticipation.

My bottom button (if you'll excuse the description) opens side and rear doors but mine is a van conversion.

Hi Similar key fob and the top button does as yours as does the middle one, bottom button does indeed unlock just the habitation door and also there is a noise from the cab doors but as with yours no actual effect on them

Thank you rgbr.    Does your key fob bottom button also lock the habitation door remotely as well as unlock it ?  
Or do you have to physically insert the habitation door key to lock it but use the bottom button to unlock it ?

Middle button locks everything, double push activates dead bolts. Top button opens cab bottom button opens sliding and rear doors on my van conversion

Thank you woodlice for your reply.

It’s as I thought and understood from the handbook. So it would appear that I have something else to add to my ever increasing list of items that need attention by the dealer before my warranty expires.

Thanks again.

You could try cleaning the contacts on the door.

Thank you Paul for the suggestion, I shall do that once I return back home following my travels.
I would imagine that with the use of a multimeter I should be able to  detect a voltage when operating the lock via the key fob.

We've also had examples of the contacts not lining up properly causing the remote locking to fail.

I think that you are right in both instances Paul in that it is a combination of misalignment due to vibration/temperature changes and oxidation of the contacts. 

The solenoid on the habitation door is operated directly and requires quite a decent current pulse to activate such that any contact resistance causes a problem. 

Ideally a relay should have been used and that would make it far more tolerant to a bit of extra series resistance but that would cost more money and we all know that AS can’t afford that!

As such I always carry around a scrap of very fine sandpaper for the purpose whilst on the road.

Regards Graham

I can finally report a happy ending to this thread.    We returned the Cotswold to the dealer for investigation.
They came back to us and said that the Cotswold did not have central locking on the habitation door so can I come and collect the van asap.    I couldn’t understand why the key fob had three buttons including one for the habitation door.   So, armed with information suggested by you guys I telephoned Autosleeper directly.   They said “of course it has central locking”.
I telephoned the dealer and suggested that they look a little harder and lo and behold, about an hour or so later they called and said that they had found a broken wire to the door frame contacts and the habitation door is locking from the key fob just as it should.
Perseverance and forum know how has once again won the day, so may I thank those of you who contributed suggestions in helping me to achieve this result.

Hi, can anybody help. I have just replaced my Peugeot Boxer 2016 Kemerton XL starter battery and now the key fob doesn’t remotely operate the door locks. I replaced its battery and operating the key in the door locks or using the button on the dashboard works fine.
Is there a way to reprogram the fob please?
I did try inserting in the ignition and holding down a button on the fob for 10 seconds but no joy.

Found on Google....

Insert the key into the ignition Do not turn on the engine Open the driver door Wait for 10 seconds Remove the key Wait for 10 seconds Press the lock button.

Hi Paul, thanks for this will try tomorrow.

Kind Regards Keith

Hi Paul, unfortunately this didn’t work and I tried a number of variations on key positions and drivers door opening. There was also info’ out there on key insertion and holding down buttons on the fob but these didn’t fix it either.
The key gives all the indications ( or rather lack of) as being " dead" I even tried another new battery and it appears to be correctly fitting.
Thanks for your help anyway.

Regards Keith

A couple of things from another forum: Lithium batteries are now (apparently) coated in Bitrex to discourage children from swallowing them, so it may help to wipe them over with a damp cloth to remove the coating. And of course, make sure the battery is up the right way, and exactly the right type (e.g. a CR2025 will physically fit in place of a CR2032, but it often won't press hard enough on the negative contact to work correctly).

Thanks for the heads up. The battery is a CR2032 and have given it a good clean but still no joy.

Regards Keith

As Paul said, I too have a van conversion Warwick, top button cab doors, middle button locks all doors, and lower button unlocks side sliding door and rear doors.

Hi Mike, as you can see my issue is that the fob has stopped working.
I am going to try a posible fix I have seen on another forum, to disconnect the negative terminal on the started batter and put the key in the ignition and press a button on the key fob. A variation on the advice from Paul.
Will post further if I get a fix.

It's a bit frustrating that Boxer keys don't seem to have an LED to show when they are transmitting.

Something that I know can happen from personal experience (with a VW key, but I think they all work in the same way): If any of the key buttons fail in a way that the circuit is closed, *none* of the keys will work (it's to do with fact that the keys work on a multiplexed system). So one thing to check: do *all* of the buttons operate with the correct "click" feel?

Note also that the keys and van work on the basis of a list of accepted codes each of which can only be used once, so if the buttons are pressed while out of range more than a certain number of times, it will cease to work and will need re-synching with the van. I've never seen a spec which shows how big the list is, but I think it's probably of the order of 20 - possibly more - though this may also vary by make.

On our key, the cause was a slight distortion of the outer case, which was stopping one of the keys from returning to the outward position.

You could try putting the battery into standby mode using the red button on the ignition.  After 7 minutes this disables most of the vehicle electrics including the central locking.  When you remove the battery from standby it then goes through a series of checks and re-enables the central locking.  Just a thought.  It might be worth a try.  Also have you tried using the central locking button on the dashboard to see if that works.

Hi, I don’t think my van has such a button but will have a look.
The central locking button on the dash does work ok, just this darn fob.

Regards Keith

I know you already have, but please ignore my post above - it doesn't make sense because in two places I used the word "keys" when I should have used the word "buttons". It's too late to edit or delete the post (and it's not possible to report your own post to a mod for deletion).

Thanks anyway Roopert, I haven’t yet tried all the options.
Will post when/if I get a fix

Just to close this out. Embracing; but found the Duracell battery I had replaced in the key fob had a small red sticker on it. Once removed the key now works fine.